tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76821167753537211102024-03-09T02:15:08.065-08:00Dispatch from MetzDavid Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comBlogger235125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-75070475400515374672011-08-30T08:15:00.000-07:002021-09-21T17:10:31.266-07:00You've Seen the Blog, Now Buy the Book<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYnx1RoSQbVbNBuNuPv0jrC_LyNbdCOY3lP5YucDD0vp5rYoLjxJyLhu1HpmrU6gHeGNuIceYLArMkeIr8OUva2rrlvBFQYx5TEK7VNnsJkcdnZ1oG0uS82yQIYxQdd4zJyYCMu9bh6rnF/s1600/Book+Cover"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 338px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYnx1RoSQbVbNBuNuPv0jrC_LyNbdCOY3lP5YucDD0vp5rYoLjxJyLhu1HpmrU6gHeGNuIceYLArMkeIr8OUva2rrlvBFQYx5TEK7VNnsJkcdnZ1oG0uS82yQIYxQdd4zJyYCMu9bh6rnF/s400/Book+Cover" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5646669104879359842" border="0" /></a>You can now buy a large-format book with the blog entries from the Dispatch from Metz through Blurb at <a href="http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/2027500">http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/2027500</a>. The cost is $112.95. The book contains the text and photos that recount Susie's and my French adventure. David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-44751612291892622642011-01-30T10:13:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:11:05.683-07:00Through the Looking GlassThis blog, like <a href="http://susieinfrance.blogspot.com">Susie's</a>, has presented what amounts to an outsider's view of Metz, Lorraine, and France. For the inverse--a native of Metz's view of the United States--check out <a href="http://chroniquesdefloride.blogspot.com/">Chroniques de Floride</a>. The blog is in French, presenting to her home country her impressions of the US; my blog, in English, expressed my impressions of France for people in the US. While her blog focuses on Florida, where she now lives, it also covers places I've lived, like Oregon.David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-8662083179772156162011-01-15T12:51:00.001-08:002021-09-21T17:12:29.359-07:00Three Communities of MetzOur visit to Metz over Thanksgiving brought us back to three different communities. We felt connected with each.<br />
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The first community was Georgia Tech-Lorraine. Jim Foley, my Georgia Tech colleague who made it possible for Susie and me to teach at GTL last spring, was himself at GTL this fall. We had the chance to have dinner with Jim and his wife Marylou at le Bouchon, the very restaurant where we had our first real meal in Metz a year ago. We were also lucky that Jean Sands and Henry Owen, our GLT colleagues, were in town, and so we had a wonderful dinner with them. At GTL proper, we said hi to all of our staff colleagues, whom we were really happy to see.<br />
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The second community was the Association Lorraine-Etats Unis. On Monday afternoon I accompanied Susie to the meeting of the association's English conversation group, in which she participated weekly last spring. I'd been to only one meeting, because I usually taught class then. So Susie (and somewhat I) caught up with the regulars, who were as warm and welcoming as usual. Then, on Thursday, we were the association's guests at their Thanksgiving dinner. This proved to be more elegant and elaborate that our usual American celebrations. The dinner took place in the great hall of the Metz Officer's Club, a room lit by chandeliers, decorated with columns, and looked over by an enormous portrait of the Emperor Napoleon I in an ermine robe.<br />
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The meal started with a regional cocktail of Champagne and mirabelle liqueur. The main course was, of course, turkey, accompanied by French side dishes. Our contribution was that I read Art Buchwald's traditional Thanksgiving column about the Jour de Merci Donnant. I translated on the fly, but because much of the column involved Frenglish, I'm not sure how effective my recitation proved to be for my audience; people were gracious enough to say that they liked it, though. As someone whose life has bridged both the U.S. and France, I felt completely at home in this gathering of French and Americans dedicated to each other's culture and to their ties across history--and that history resounds with special acuteness in Metz.<br />
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The third community was Metz's Jewish community. Susie and I attended Friday night Shabbat services at the Metz synagogue and then, at the invitation of Rabbis Fiszon and Bamberger, joined their families for a celebration of the wedding, in England in three weeks time, of the Bambergers' youngest son. Mme Bamberger and the whole family welcomed us with great warmth. The Bamberger brothers are amazing singers, and they sang through the evening with emotion. We weren't able to attend the wedding, but you can still hear <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/rubenbambi#p/u/31/wn5dKlg_uos">the brothers' celebration via YouTube</a>. We abandoned our Saturday plans of visiting Strasbourg so we could rejoin the congregation for Saturday morning services, which were joyous and moving.<br />
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So these were the highlights of our stay in Metz, not only for Thanksgiving week but as the summary of our whole winter and spring. The squares, the markets, the restaurants, the forts, the history, and the arts draw visitors to France and to Metz. The connections to communities stay with us and draw us back to visit again.David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-82836190634560227442011-01-15T12:35:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:13:00.236-07:00Some Concluding Images<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0AldWT6cM1BMH-MQtjU-HaAeupDX6tfmabsMSQL8zw8iTrQNFEZOs7ojI-uZMTgNBNoHuMNI69NA4ob5SEvajS3fBKWALUKO7Iq5gm9q1sxz_K4dlAA2GR0mDoCXJjkQ4ZL5x8AKk40xJ/s1600/Metz+esplanade+2010.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 194px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0AldWT6cM1BMH-MQtjU-HaAeupDX6tfmabsMSQL8zw8iTrQNFEZOs7ojI-uZMTgNBNoHuMNI69NA4ob5SEvajS3fBKWALUKO7Iq5gm9q1sxz_K4dlAA2GR0mDoCXJjkQ4ZL5x8AKk40xJ/s400/Metz+esplanade+2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5562517746170961554" border="0" /></a>Here are a few concluding images that stick with me as I think back on our visit. The view of the Esplanade, looking west from the Place de la République toward the Moselle, captures a part of Metz's spirit, with dancing waters, rolling forested hills, and a French garden. Metz is also the ancient, medieval and now modern city, with its streets that date back to the Romans, its Cathedral tower part of the unending work of renovation, its combination of roofs of dark slate and red tile, and its mix of buildings of all eras, shapes, sizes and styles. And Metz is a city of people, unseen from the Grande Roue but braving the cold of winter to stroll the narrow streets to prepare for the coming holidays.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTRfnQG5L2PuQkno0EStNYqN3a_8PtBsh6jWZQQfoXJm2MUsAWV1VBb6J-2klGrh8dXoX4DCdQjmf3t-80i-Ar0njLTYpwp3LvWHZUGY5wv6oQlVeJ8up-pkKwxzpOprqze8dREegictJN/s1600/Metz+rooftops+2010.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTRfnQG5L2PuQkno0EStNYqN3a_8PtBsh6jWZQQfoXJm2MUsAWV1VBb6J-2klGrh8dXoX4DCdQjmf3t-80i-Ar0njLTYpwp3LvWHZUGY5wv6oQlVeJ8up-pkKwxzpOprqze8dREegictJN/s400/Metz+rooftops+2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5562517648579902786" border="0" /></a>And here's an image of the Bras Mort of the Moselle, off the Plan d'Eau and the Canal de Jouy. This is the picture on the desktop of my computer, so I get to be there every day.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoHszHVQxqb1YNeX4hvxV6fJjwcJEMYqpPTUK4480-EKSxKHKqeYLoIXI09DXWM87cJD0mMzxxDkRJSbak6I7FUWJ_1ycmExGU0Knn06GcoaX-ZiI0wSYT7OVABE_4y25s7yUmX5MUFvi/s1600/Metz+Canal+2010.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 241px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoHszHVQxqb1YNeX4hvxV6fJjwcJEMYqpPTUK4480-EKSxKHKqeYLoIXI09DXWM87cJD0mMzxxDkRJSbak6I7FUWJ_1ycmExGU0Knn06GcoaX-ZiI0wSYT7OVABE_4y25s7yUmX5MUFvi/s400/Metz+Canal+2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5562517532530410850" border="0" /></a>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-86392173273740550872011-01-14T21:11:00.001-08:002021-09-21T17:13:55.124-07:00Metz: Details<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRukWhzM-s9eRGSB39JksLdhNroLScbTM-ovvuwO0FUOMsOIfjIEoNWm2aYOPTvhjkuIY9lY3-kIKb65Ipc9MCpsQ6bsPZXL8PTUMtS6JyCSWtXxVjG4ORnVmYOyIT8eYgUq514uPTCRPM/s1600/01-14-11+Metz+Details--Fruit+Seller.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 312px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRukWhzM-s9eRGSB39JksLdhNroLScbTM-ovvuwO0FUOMsOIfjIEoNWm2aYOPTvhjkuIY9lY3-kIKb65Ipc9MCpsQ6bsPZXL8PTUMtS6JyCSWtXxVjG4ORnVmYOyIT8eYgUq514uPTCRPM/s400/01-14-11+Metz+Details--Fruit+Seller.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5562276101804186434" border="0" /></a>Display of fruits and vegetables at a market in Metz
</div>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-72594756743974360452011-01-14T21:03:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:14:10.063-07:00Fortress Metz<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwL4jhtjjH8Vl51jc5yrxIg_1RmTsmRjhvTDt2qCR__ky2H4mnmVMl6Td8-PW9grzw8o_WTsadY6SwsH6OWCDy5wLVpFStEzYRK9TZRNXHOsgcLI876C9c5RR7zoCM2i8Xvn0It30tYSd6/s1600/01-14-11+Metz+17th+Century+Fortress+Map.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwL4jhtjjH8Vl51jc5yrxIg_1RmTsmRjhvTDt2qCR__ky2H4mnmVMl6Td8-PW9grzw8o_WTsadY6SwsH6OWCDy5wLVpFStEzYRK9TZRNXHOsgcLI876C9c5RR7zoCM2i8Xvn0It30tYSd6/s400/01-14-11+Metz+17th+Century+Fortress+Map.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5562275665606697538" border="0" /></a>From the Museums of Metz, here's a bird's-eye view of Metz and its fortifications in the 17th Century. Just above the cathedral, on the open field at the left of the little island in the Moselle, is where the Temple Neuf now stands. The city walls have mostly now disappeared, except for the ramparts at the junction of the Moselle and Seille, at the right side of the city in this picture. The elaborate fortification on the left was the Porte Serpenoise, now shrunk to an arch. Overall, Metz must have been a formidable defensive position.David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-67500774594809516282011-01-14T21:01:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:10:15.141-07:00Textures<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWuTbzNH2LKMaIxwH_SbYICwHKbBW4uHo6DttD0WH02skqXIXEwOUPde6yOOS_PRDmUmHst8MLg73EvuDbO-zxo-2GrzzGnwjyY-Kd1GUo-IcSK_aO9o5dUnX7uJq37hZeHLmrsQ9f5WP/s1600/Texture+St+Julien.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 235px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWuTbzNH2LKMaIxwH_SbYICwHKbBW4uHo6DttD0WH02skqXIXEwOUPde6yOOS_PRDmUmHst8MLg73EvuDbO-zxo-2GrzzGnwjyY-Kd1GUo-IcSK_aO9o5dUnX7uJq37hZeHLmrsQ9f5WP/s400/Texture+St+Julien.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5562273732231276370" border="0" /></a>Building panel, Saint-Julien-les-Metz
</div>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-44451743206779324832011-01-13T13:43:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:14:35.244-07:00Saint-Julien-lès-MetzThe archives of the Department of the Moselle surmount the village of <a href="http://www.mairie-stjulienlesmetz.fr/">Saint-Julien-lès-Metz</a>, just north of Metz, across the river Seille. Below the archives, to the west, sits one of the several major forts surrounding Metz. To the north and east lie rolling fields. And downhill to the south of the archives lies the village itself. After our visit to the archives for the exhibition on the expulsions of World War II, Susie and I walked the back to our hotel, a route of about 3.5 kilometers.
Saint-Julien-lès-Metz is a well-heeled village, with nice villas and condominiums. Here are a couple of the villas that we passed during our walk. They're not spectacular, just well-to-do, well-kept, and very French, to my eye.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YhhGWNb-awOdMnxGdvjtY0ruJ0KsShQWia_kyGL6z-ZWg9aXx9CvX0djUkwfhoMzoztVcK7cS4tw0eG5GbTl1EU463aJzAflcmgtoSptxErnP72NctpKF8v8MvYBTTKxSwpaFMFayEuK/s1600/11-01-13+St+Julien+Villa.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 258px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YhhGWNb-awOdMnxGdvjtY0ruJ0KsShQWia_kyGL6z-ZWg9aXx9CvX0djUkwfhoMzoztVcK7cS4tw0eG5GbTl1EU463aJzAflcmgtoSptxErnP72NctpKF8v8MvYBTTKxSwpaFMFayEuK/s400/11-01-13+St+Julien+Villa.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561792394905139954" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDYJ0YcIE2nKs0KSJxsxPi-Twsdy4njqZzKpBf5z4NrIILF4fJ04e_QElPjQV52OAfL_Mtf0P576l3pw-OQHEhha_Rf3PdEeUy_ZxaLlNqW-yKpE578DCR0nDIdB9fUk4YN7Ll8SQuIPgw/s1600/11-01-13+St+Julien+Villa+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 261px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDYJ0YcIE2nKs0KSJxsxPi-Twsdy4njqZzKpBf5z4NrIILF4fJ04e_QElPjQV52OAfL_Mtf0P576l3pw-OQHEhha_Rf3PdEeUy_ZxaLlNqW-yKpE578DCR0nDIdB9fUk4YN7Ll8SQuIPgw/s400/11-01-13+St+Julien+Villa+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561792914877696322" border="0" /></a>Toward the top of the village, the visitor finds numerous apartment buildings, which I figure are condominiums. These are modern and look up-scale. Here's an example.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkx8yVvDO2UEf_TDcYMJu3HKPyF_qcEKbGJm-73b3UkeywS6dRfnGuaFMo1ceXUwl54RgykQaXIRjeP4KvBgJd8qAZMMqkAzYEbxDJ_OA-t8BBOqm-sp32lteWRAy7dc07Eeo47zjxrEfx/s1600/11-01-13+St+Julien+Condo.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 260px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkx8yVvDO2UEf_TDcYMJu3HKPyF_qcEKbGJm-73b3UkeywS6dRfnGuaFMo1ceXUwl54RgykQaXIRjeP4KvBgJd8qAZMMqkAzYEbxDJ_OA-t8BBOqm-sp32lteWRAy7dc07Eeo47zjxrEfx/s400/11-01-13+St+Julien+Condo.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561792788417283266" border="0" /></a>Almost all the dwellings of modern Saint-Julien probably date from the 2oth Century. A painting in the Metz art museum shows a view, dated 1833, of Metz from Saint Julien. The city's surrounded by fields instead of houses.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicQWwxS3Quy3sRt0HI3FyaOdK5rHQmKBcuJish_4CblIVrDX-XlBBpFxwtEWCJr7rtqbTnM2oGlQKf8p_kFIGCaWf-HDORwjPOBxF43S9qpH2_1M_W5_Tj_taqqhS1kYKMiL-ZCo3l437G/s1600/11-01-13+Metz+1833+View+from+St+Julien.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 274px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicQWwxS3Quy3sRt0HI3FyaOdK5rHQmKBcuJish_4CblIVrDX-XlBBpFxwtEWCJr7rtqbTnM2oGlQKf8p_kFIGCaWf-HDORwjPOBxF43S9qpH2_1M_W5_Tj_taqqhS1kYKMiL-ZCo3l437G/s400/11-01-13+Metz+1833+View+from+St+Julien.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561792666750078642" border="0" /></a>Here's a view, roughly from the same direction but not as high up, taken during our visit in November of 2010. You can still see the cathedral, but buildings now completely fill in the landscape.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnwNh38DTUZL_0tpvW7ixp9NjNYgfi4VI9YV48kEYlwykEk0j30te2FUnBbbaJ1qLlQZ7bN3tTYokY10iQOIlMST6S4f0e5Su3YU6XW-HwRmzbb8pmso2oj2f9_wmMXbwIxV2H4R2AwMKr/s1600/11-01-13+Metz+today+from+St+Julien.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnwNh38DTUZL_0tpvW7ixp9NjNYgfi4VI9YV48kEYlwykEk0j30te2FUnBbbaJ1qLlQZ7bN3tTYokY10iQOIlMST6S4f0e5Su3YU6XW-HwRmzbb8pmso2oj2f9_wmMXbwIxV2H4R2AwMKr/s400/11-01-13+Metz+today+from+St+Julien.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561792531309298130" border="0" /></a>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-39847334933186526502011-01-13T13:41:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:15:48.832-07:00Faces of Metz<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM72VVA_zKbXYWwStSRTKxZD8rBqK1aa6cSuSEPPfUMpKCRisKCxJXeOyjJV1Tc3ONlUK0msVFNG5j4PYqNwsWYKy551Z2_hBn4NLxn-h1JBSQZuWr72QWSNXbvfA-qO_WHZ_upQpPObS4/s1600/Metz+stone+face+2010.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 329px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM72VVA_zKbXYWwStSRTKxZD8rBqK1aa6cSuSEPPfUMpKCRisKCxJXeOyjJV1Tc3ONlUK0msVFNG5j4PYqNwsWYKy551Z2_hBn4NLxn-h1JBSQZuWr72QWSNXbvfA-qO_WHZ_upQpPObS4/s400/Metz+stone+face+2010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561789351816509506" border="0" /></a>Esplanade, Metz
</div>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-54913780112046872812011-01-12T10:25:00.001-08:002021-09-21T17:16:19.758-07:00The Place de la République<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXP1-Jre6bAIk_U3gGgENk5Hc_0vXgXN0DzXX_035i2fVh6Kjsmvzujqz5oYaOaQebveNq9l-yNu9YDIuB2sbJDiWJ6hncnu75qpnHRXpESVJOZ0Fd0UEGjdc_59k0Tp0_dcwJ4vFtyNet/s1600/01-01-12+Metz+Place+de+la+Republique+2010.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561368557406283058" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXP1-Jre6bAIk_U3gGgENk5Hc_0vXgXN0DzXX_035i2fVh6Kjsmvzujqz5oYaOaQebveNq9l-yNu9YDIuB2sbJDiWJ6hncnu75qpnHRXpESVJOZ0Fd0UEGjdc_59k0Tp0_dcwJ4vFtyNet/s400/01-01-12+Metz+Place+de+la+Republique+2010.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 254px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>All during our stay in Metz last year, the Place de la République was a mess, torn up and muddy, with its construction spilling over into the adjacent boulevard and turning the city's largest bus hub into a crazy quilt of displaced bus stops. On our return for Thanksgiving, all the work was finished and the square's holiday activities were in full swing. We arrived on a Sunday, and the square had just been officially reopened on Saturday afternoon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijqj0-1gozopXosUqM1nWwSE28xw89ASVJT2UbVknFm3vDq1xUVd_uvCuKcCXUF8XllQq6qGFNPDtY7zN0so8Ew_VRHkwmRXi7EJLBES-Q84i0epiDAQaA5p177jnYQa64fYAuLfAV7msi/s1600/11-01-12+Metz+Republique.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561369105539566306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijqj0-1gozopXosUqM1nWwSE28xw89ASVJT2UbVknFm3vDq1xUVd_uvCuKcCXUF8XllQq6qGFNPDtY7zN0so8Ew_VRHkwmRXi7EJLBES-Q84i0epiDAQaA5p177jnYQa64fYAuLfAV7msi/s400/11-01-12+Metz+Republique.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 328px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 230px;" /></a>The most obvious feature was a temporary one: an enormous Ferris wheel that was visible for miles around. And at the base of the Ferris wheel stood seasonal attractions, including a branch of the Metz Christmas fair, which had been sidelined last year, and an ice-skating rink.<br />
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The various venues of the Christmas fair--the train station, the Place St. Louis, the Place St. Jacques, the Place de la Republique--have different decorative themes. At la gare, the booths look like railroad cars. At the Place St. Jaques, the booths have fanciful roofs, over which hangs a net of shimmering stars. At the Place de la Rep', the booths represent, I think, chalets.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG7E9hOqRimegxCBtSGsk8KmwF0o2FXMI8ztdSKGS1qgkNguOtVF-otj56G_VxI8dO1YeiYRNSa9aOuTHOkXsTUl-dp8WADs0ppjYRLaeKdfwQyQ7SWbgRxRrVxTWtwoUFdWUAy5eJK5kc/s1600/01-01-12+Metz+Christmas+Village+2010.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561368726196149586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG7E9hOqRimegxCBtSGsk8KmwF0o2FXMI8ztdSKGS1qgkNguOtVF-otj56G_VxI8dO1YeiYRNSa9aOuTHOkXsTUl-dp8WADs0ppjYRLaeKdfwQyQ7SWbgRxRrVxTWtwoUFdWUAy5eJK5kc/s400/01-01-12+Metz+Christmas+Village+2010.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 174px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Throngs of people, mostly young, flocked to the ice-skating rink. Individuals had varying levels of evident skill, and tumbles were common. Everyone, with exception of perhaps a small crying child, seemed to be having fun.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00SMdVMmeeIaRI765atSjdtPAIaqtw3Mqt1KS9lmhbwX3M_jwjBrYQXnhTRX1T4Shwrqte8N9w5EaUNvtYMpfgCbxVus3t8K4cRXzh6rfmuLebL3piWRNK619nN8UCROUUtRpE4TyVPeA/s1600/01-01-12+Metz+Ice+Skating+2010.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561371609798336850" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00SMdVMmeeIaRI765atSjdtPAIaqtw3Mqt1KS9lmhbwX3M_jwjBrYQXnhTRX1T4Shwrqte8N9w5EaUNvtYMpfgCbxVus3t8K4cRXzh6rfmuLebL3piWRNK619nN8UCROUUtRpE4TyVPeA/s400/01-01-12+Metz+Ice+Skating+2010.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 277px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Other than the fountain on the Esplanade, the ice-skating rink represented the area's only water feature, and a frozen one at that. Come summer, the Place de la Rep' should be flowing with water features. There's even a "beach" built on a wooden deck.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6mBfHEF4pTn0PoBdNtK-1L19mZvlZ1pWFAfJMAtXUyYdd5Hc0W7uTvqyHf17Ur2pb-eXU5VWN_p9hFGjeV9iV7pwpSOLh7MjhFCcI1BpMgIJoBoMMexOaYmfIYzFF9_o66iksB-1SoMG/s1600/01-01-12+Metz+Place+de+la+Republique+beach.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561369270675618418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6mBfHEF4pTn0PoBdNtK-1L19mZvlZ1pWFAfJMAtXUyYdd5Hc0W7uTvqyHf17Ur2pb-eXU5VWN_p9hFGjeV9iV7pwpSOLh7MjhFCcI1BpMgIJoBoMMexOaYmfIYzFF9_o66iksB-1SoMG/s400/01-01-12+Metz+Place+de+la+Republique+beach.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 189px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI7-b6hxUwiCzJvxllAUeswG1mjGFICCR5qCzOn7svBTXSGjIqjhab4pZfyPJVCC6ePI_uP8eZzKdnQp5zb-3V2gZbKG9PX4KwBFtmOclc6M-DcPxFCK6BoGmD7D5fcIMmzRvEJudGBove/s1600/01-01-12+Metz+Grande+Roue+2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561373886555151586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI7-b6hxUwiCzJvxllAUeswG1mjGFICCR5qCzOn7svBTXSGjIqjhab4pZfyPJVCC6ePI_uP8eZzKdnQp5zb-3V2gZbKG9PX4KwBFtmOclc6M-DcPxFCK6BoGmD7D5fcIMmzRvEJudGBove/s400/01-01-12+Metz+Grande+Roue+2.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 212px; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; width: 190px;" /></a>The Grande Roue, whose loading structure also reflected the chalet style, towered above the area. This massive machine, on which Susie and I rode, of course, turns out to be from Germany; it was made by the <a href="http://www.greatwheel.com/">Great Wheel Corporation</a> of Munich.<br />
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From the top of the Grande Roue we could see far and wide. We easily spotted Metz's new permanent landmark, the <a href="http://www.centrepompidou-metz.fr/">Centre Pompidou-Metz</a>. You can also see the train station's water tower at the left.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbBKAF6WMm0RybZkQ6wjtjjbQMRMSDixfJsG24YZUTer46g-3EvI4wX7dhgeYifnzufPawgIKxrCLWRdEGLG3VkuWiA8FPPMQA_wlJmcfccfWFU6SILYB8wiWyK4A90Zy2uyUtz0pvjb4A/s1600/01-01-12+Metz+Center+Pompidou.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561368326470355794" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbBKAF6WMm0RybZkQ6wjtjjbQMRMSDixfJsG24YZUTer46g-3EvI4wX7dhgeYifnzufPawgIKxrCLWRdEGLG3VkuWiA8FPPMQA_wlJmcfccfWFU6SILYB8wiWyK4A90Zy2uyUtz0pvjb4A/s400/01-01-12+Metz+Center+Pompidou.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 255px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Closer to home, we could find the apartment we stayed in while living in Metz during the winter and spring. Our building was the one with the gray roof in the center of the photograph.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvBvwLirwofSMxj1cGwig5cXe5QP2byM0BxPUn7n8FbeY_LI7XO9YYhOxwdVq-5QtQmcWj_I_RzsRNVpI_gCfMSMwfu7vm-TuRcSxewwaxcVGtR7ejBasraHDCenFrpK-oB-TfYLNkuu7j/s1600/01-01-12+Metz+rue+des+Trois+Boulangers.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561368829118077970" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvBvwLirwofSMxj1cGwig5cXe5QP2byM0BxPUn7n8FbeY_LI7XO9YYhOxwdVq-5QtQmcWj_I_RzsRNVpI_gCfMSMwfu7vm-TuRcSxewwaxcVGtR7ejBasraHDCenFrpK-oB-TfYLNkuu7j/s400/01-01-12+Metz+rue+des+Trois+Boulangers.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 243px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>After our revolutions on the Grande Roue, we looked back at it and the Place de la République from the Esplanade. Even when the wheel and rink are gone, the Messins will have a great public space to enjoy.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRX1xATe0Q6uz58hRHwDuMI0g8umX-0GrtsGZa2XwC8q5fcAgIzlHG9cz3nGYjB-CtQ3_lcEccGGbkfAAhd89xjRkTJVUtOO6C7siyAJIqFXZlxyvHhWVRyrh2OPsJ_JiVyFxuUKuM6kp/s1600/01-01-12+Metz+Grande+Roue.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561375173421355954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRX1xATe0Q6uz58hRHwDuMI0g8umX-0GrtsGZa2XwC8q5fcAgIzlHG9cz3nGYjB-CtQ3_lcEccGGbkfAAhd89xjRkTJVUtOO6C7siyAJIqFXZlxyvHhWVRyrh2OPsJ_JiVyFxuUKuM6kp/s400/01-01-12+Metz+Grande+Roue.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 269px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-75617869802030494652011-01-11T12:08:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:16:34.254-07:00The Liberation of Metz, November, 1944November 20, 2010, the day Susie and I boarded the airplane to return to Metz, coincidentally marked the 66th anniversary of the city's liberation by American forces. The <a href="http://www.thegriffon108.com/Articles/ArticleDetail/tabid/226/ArticleID/456/smid/860/reftab/313/Default.aspx">liberation of Metz was a hellish task</a>, as the city and its surrounding were among the most heavily fortified in Europe.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs66VRtUYWLQwPkxNLR-ySo9aPSWHb8k2HSqldcU_TlTAr4bwK1s6fYnPJgbdySXvb_THzc9OtW90G_-y2yxdFjeE5_6pp990nlAyy6nfRlWzoc0JkhURTZBI4mnEz5g0ZTXMTKdiwtoYp/s1600/11-01-11+Metz+Liberation+Banner.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 270px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs66VRtUYWLQwPkxNLR-ySo9aPSWHb8k2HSqldcU_TlTAr4bwK1s6fYnPJgbdySXvb_THzc9OtW90G_-y2yxdFjeE5_6pp990nlAyy6nfRlWzoc0JkhURTZBI4mnEz5g0ZTXMTKdiwtoYp/s400/11-01-11+Metz+Liberation+Banner.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561023972338178754" border="0" /></a>The tourist office, on the north side of the square bordered by both the cathedral and the hotel de ville, displayed a banner commemorating the liberation. On the south side, opposite the banner, a plaque on the base of a statue marks the place where General Walker of the U.S. Army handed over to the French authorities the city liberated by his troops. The mayor's office placed a ceremonial bouquet under the plaque.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr-6oAptl4yjhqa6oBd08w-YuM5TvmPNSbo2u1Vrh-tD2Yb3Z768MyKq0_g8q246YnZl6OF-n-bMOVy9PCGuyp-edsCV_CC1Eavv5Ij4QIRKLpX2fGVFzbo5M3kGeDmmugftGlWx-ZWg8y/s1600/11-01-11+Metz+Liberation+Memorial.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 312px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr-6oAptl4yjhqa6oBd08w-YuM5TvmPNSbo2u1Vrh-tD2Yb3Z768MyKq0_g8q246YnZl6OF-n-bMOVy9PCGuyp-edsCV_CC1Eavv5Ij4QIRKLpX2fGVFzbo5M3kGeDmmugftGlWx-ZWg8y/s400/11-01-11+Metz+Liberation+Memorial.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561023666924888434" border="0" /></a>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZhZie7NQsrKfL0lpu9y_VQbgGO5uQ0LtuKllSS3JLa2grL8E1egJO6R-ftZQ7QqXUKprHVAvSLtJZEQ_3VW2-GqoMIydoiozld9WneWBynkTlEf1ysenOs6MxzJ8pO4X1lo-U9qDP9s9o/s1600/11-01-11+Metz+US+Memorial.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 260px; height: 333px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZhZie7NQsrKfL0lpu9y_VQbgGO5uQ0LtuKllSS3JLa2grL8E1egJO6R-ftZQ7QqXUKprHVAvSLtJZEQ_3VW2-GqoMIydoiozld9WneWBynkTlEf1ysenOs6MxzJ8pO4X1lo-U9qDP9s9o/s400/11-01-11+Metz+US+Memorial.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561023388183738114" border="0" /></a>Many more bouquets surrounded the monument honoring the U.S. Army's 95th Infantry Division, <a href="http://mathieu.gitzhofer.free.fr/accueilgb.htm">the Iron Men of Metz</a>. Among the tributes, just below "Metz," was a red-white-and-blue floral arrangement from the Association Lorraine-Etats Unis.David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-48683260908330375562011-01-10T18:00:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:17:05.850-07:00The Moselle in World War II"De gré ou de force, l'expulsion des Mosellans 1940-1945" ("By will or by force, the expulsion of the people of the Mosell") is the current exhibition of the<a href="http://www.archives57.com/"> Departmental Archives of the Moselle</a>. It follows logically from the Archives' previous exhibition, which covered the evacuation of people from region to other places in France that were less likely to be close to battles. The Archives did remarkable work for both exhibitions.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDlw5MIxCMF_AJ1Pp8MOv6fQ-DdUpMbdDr0T4eCxBwMVPTwsUxqjvG_045KkKigr8Sg9N1Vmpx7Med6gCCn_fcHf7cEmMf7ANkmpx9qApr8aEJ8Jdxatkn5xCMH8Yxbm6IVA3n-9Ju1SRT/s1600/11-01-10+Exile+Interieur+poster.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 375px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDlw5MIxCMF_AJ1Pp8MOv6fQ-DdUpMbdDr0T4eCxBwMVPTwsUxqjvG_045KkKigr8Sg9N1Vmpx7Med6gCCn_fcHf7cEmMf7ANkmpx9qApr8aEJ8Jdxatkn5xCMH8Yxbm6IVA3n-9Ju1SRT/s400/11-01-10+Exile+Interieur+poster.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560747249215103858" border="0" /></a>In the pre-war evacuation, the French government moved inhabitants of the Moselle region, especially those closest to the German border, to places of relative safety in other parts of France. As documented in the Archives' prior exhibition, "Un exil interieure: L'evacauation des Mosellans," about 300,000 people from the Moselle moved in September 1939 and May, 1940 to regions closer to the Atlantic. After the French capitulation in September, 1940, most of these people returned to their homes in the Moselle.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVBkqGfo-tYlKvofI-dNgAvognGdEDAMQMamfuMZbfaiwjRrqJSiCZu-sTtYg1vEJ11mFBzulp_rpapjBQRYurYP-O3PZEcBqpmwNT35MGn12_wRLWArdftcYpqyMXnHWTSWiV9DeA-u3G/s1600/11-01-10+Expulsion+poster.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 283px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVBkqGfo-tYlKvofI-dNgAvognGdEDAMQMamfuMZbfaiwjRrqJSiCZu-sTtYg1vEJ11mFBzulp_rpapjBQRYurYP-O3PZEcBqpmwNT35MGn12_wRLWArdftcYpqyMXnHWTSWiV9DeA-u3G/s400/11-01-10+Expulsion+poster.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560747083585532898" border="0" /></a>The current exhibition documents the brutal wartime expulsions, part of the Nazi plan to "Germanify" the Moselle. This region, considered by the Nazis to be not occupied France but rather an integral part of Germany, saw 100,000 inhabitants expelled as "undesirables."
Some left willingly, others only when forced. For the most part, they were French speakers who didn't fit into the victors' vision of a German Moselle. The Nazi authorities limited the expulsed to 2,000 Francs and 110 pounds of baggage; everything else--houses, furniture, clothes, shops, factories, dishes, toys, and tools--had to be left behind.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQW08C4bX5R1-02xyzKFbePwI-3o5qSVy9LbATd4m6WJlOV-d85qYjTCLFD7cgLsccsIe_rjA3-bRJUGZLzrPMZ7jE9L3tmVDf1OZUhuBvWAGmF8v1MXBnR-q_d0AzBZxWcFwrH3XbrFG/s1600/11-01-10+Gnade+und+ehre+poster.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQW08C4bX5R1-02xyzKFbePwI-3o5qSVy9LbATd4m6WJlOV-d85qYjTCLFD7cgLsccsIe_rjA3-bRJUGZLzrPMZ7jE9L3tmVDf1OZUhuBvWAGmF8v1MXBnR-q_d0AzBZxWcFwrH3XbrFG/s400/11-01-10+Gnade+und+ehre+poster.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560746436919602770" border="0" /></a>
German posters proclaimed the new cultural order. "It's a privilege and an honor to be German," declared Metz's new ruler.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXaEOuXW89AcWud1ZcVL62EVh_jLTHQpVumnSGF2-lwkU35Wpjiyez_EY3_j4m1BW3w-362u0e54u3IGIVAHCze7A38xlXQg9bKTYJKEa7Cdgiqp_npXsS6E0eNzZ3onLwwg9MFWjfVl7b/s1600/11-01-10+Hinaus+poster.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 293px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXaEOuXW89AcWud1ZcVL62EVh_jLTHQpVumnSGF2-lwkU35Wpjiyez_EY3_j4m1BW3w-362u0e54u3IGIVAHCze7A38xlXQg9bKTYJKEa7Cdgiqp_npXsS6E0eNzZ3onLwwg9MFWjfVl7b/s400/11-01-10+Hinaus+poster.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560745591567053858" border="0" /></a>
All that was French was to be swept away. Streets were renamed for prominent Nazis.
The expulsed ended up, for the most part, in the Midi--south central France. Many lived in poverty. Local inhabitants of the Midi provided shelter and support, and the Vichy <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjDculeFbKM8_qkVltvZ9hmty5xfvCxkH2k1nIfGNGh3UXl9Z8hNnakfYCmCiWaw-LnqgJMIVzlfKWxaQE8UFp6cjiP-Ee9a-PuF3dJ8eArtgxQqWu6oq-E0TZOKn5HfIohqUAQ_HpmHd/s1600/11-01-10+Cantine+poster.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 299px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjDculeFbKM8_qkVltvZ9hmty5xfvCxkH2k1nIfGNGh3UXl9Z8hNnakfYCmCiWaw-LnqgJMIVzlfKWxaQE8UFp6cjiP-Ee9a-PuF3dJ8eArtgxQqWu6oq-E0TZOKn5HfIohqUAQ_HpmHd/s400/11-01-10+Cantine+poster.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560745315348631266" border="0" /></a>government trumpeted its support in its own posters. This one shows well-fed children at the winter aid cantine of the Marshall (i.e., Maréchal Pétain.)
In the cities of the Midi, the expulsed tried to keep their culture and traditions alive. These advertisements in the Periguex newspaper, for a restaurant, a tailor, and a tavern, suggest to me that these cities must have had a "little Alsace and Lorraine," something like little Italy in New York City.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSGr_j_b5VpKe-gq7_0W-bfG9xl6rM78ESU8qXZMofbFFlmDJHiHzBqCJW68eozsSbMBrrvbtmLd-EzBgSruvg6Dz4Z0oSDsBYh4Z2-CWoQvuw6eTsliRS8Ttcu6UqVWIbxbT86q5SWuGL/s1600/11-01-10+Periguex+ads.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 269px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSGr_j_b5VpKe-gq7_0W-bfG9xl6rM78ESU8qXZMofbFFlmDJHiHzBqCJW68eozsSbMBrrvbtmLd-EzBgSruvg6Dz4Z0oSDsBYh4Z2-CWoQvuw6eTsliRS8Ttcu6UqVWIbxbT86q5SWuGL/s400/11-01-10+Periguex+ads.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560744975781894802" border="0" /></a>With the Allies' victory, the expulsed began to return home. Despite German assurances when they left the Moselle that their property would be protected, they soon found that everything had been systematically looted. This letter, to a man in exile in Casablanca, informs him that his tire-repair shop is now unoccupied but that it had been emptied of all of its contents in the first months of the German occupation.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjupE-bhpwIpRPx-yuPgB553ZE6qzPT8HC7PLbNlGxaFeytZK-gRlx1oG76kd7TFXMzS5KqvWTkpVXYpEE3q5KAtJM75xx44PdARMmOV4eM6T2hvW55szgPLWEggtTSVORtQo_wTsSWicVm/s1600/11-01-10+Chambre+des+Metiers+letter.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 262px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjupE-bhpwIpRPx-yuPgB553ZE6qzPT8HC7PLbNlGxaFeytZK-gRlx1oG76kd7TFXMzS5KqvWTkpVXYpEE3q5KAtJM75xx44PdARMmOV4eM6T2hvW55szgPLWEggtTSVORtQo_wTsSWicVm/s400/11-01-10+Chambre+des+Metiers+letter.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560744595129837106" border="0" /></a>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxWLjaNzcB6hPUbDVwb-pU_tlAjOxywGFQZXp-Yuv7BpT1MZLrDucMg7ZSJvTd548drB2DUeJq2vkNoGcUl22C_slAXGrAU00MoO0BHlU3C7p8qBwtmZLr_v_FdHS7ZfogK_IJ3XvUFLk/s1600/11-01-10+Manifestation+poster.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 393px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxWLjaNzcB6hPUbDVwb-pU_tlAjOxywGFQZXp-Yuv7BpT1MZLrDucMg7ZSJvTd548drB2DUeJq2vkNoGcUl22C_slAXGrAU00MoO0BHlU3C7p8qBwtmZLr_v_FdHS7ZfogK_IJ3XvUFLk/s400/11-01-10+Manifestation+poster.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560742998162581026" border="0" /></a>In the immediate post-war, life was hard in France and especially in Alsace-Lorraine, which saw the worst of the fighting. The expulsed, who had lost almost everything when they left and found little when they returned, were among the worst off. They organized to claim their rights. Here's a poster calling for the expulsed and refugies to hold a big demonstration in Metz.
Contemporary Metz no longer has the street names imposed by the Nazis, but the story of the expulsed is still within the city's living memory. The exhibition "De gré ou de force, l'expulsion des Mosellans 1940-1945" runs through 31 May, 2011.David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-83138173714995557272011-01-09T17:20:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:17:19.344-07:00What's new, Metz?The biggest change in Metz since we left in June is that the refurbishment of the Place de la République, the city's largest public square, is complete. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilt3WhcriFUxxtbLfWuRv-6vnjC3evX06wzGnO6LS5H9orI1ULPED7E5CXd4RCJEk70Sk9kgQ2cLWQz3anbWxjyyroi9Utal6JCmYyoJTRWRSGzLjGjIwSO5m9NdxlukPJK6lA5qro2n1p/s1600/Metz+Grande+Roue+Poster.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 245px; height: 323px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilt3WhcriFUxxtbLfWuRv-6vnjC3evX06wzGnO6LS5H9orI1ULPED7E5CXd4RCJEk70Sk9kgQ2cLWQz3anbWxjyyroi9Utal6JCmYyoJTRWRSGzLjGjIwSO5m9NdxlukPJK6lA5qro2n1p/s400/Metz+Grande+Roue+Poster.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560361968625061698" border="0" /></a>Indeed, the dedication ceremony took place the day before we arrived. The Pompidou Center-Metz continues to attract crowds; we met a group from Nîmes who had come up for a couple of days, with the new museum as the anchor site for their trip. The holiday lights on some of the streets have been updated, and the Christmas markets have expanded into the Place de la République itself, after having been pushed to the sidelines by the renovation. There were new exhibits at both the city and departmental archives. The cathedral's tower is still being renovated, with years to go, I think. The Saint Martin church near our apartment is now being renovated, too. Not surprisingly because we'd only been away since June, most of Metz seemed to be pretty much as we'd left it.
<metz grande="" roue="" poster="">
Because the</metz><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiheQ2yQy74VuYOXFubcumjz0DOTUhhk-S5xpEY2-OZM5dXISWBLaCA_KFDc__zuX8sagcD9M5nJ9ZPRUvo7BPNXslAN_YDIrrOysuj9cKgZPbn76rAlGFa3hjQBy8zSa0eINTfu6V9IR11/s1600/St+Nicolas+de+Metz.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 170px; height: 190px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiheQ2yQy74VuYOXFubcumjz0DOTUhhk-S5xpEY2-OZM5dXISWBLaCA_KFDc__zuX8sagcD9M5nJ9ZPRUvo7BPNXslAN_YDIrrOysuj9cKgZPbn76rAlGFa3hjQBy8zSa0eINTfu6V9IR11/s400/St+Nicolas+de+Metz.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560361625406927810" border="0" /></a><metz grande="" roue="" poster=""> holiday decorations are up and the Christmas market had started, I had the feeling of completing a cycle of seasons. These were nea</metz><metz grande="" roue="" poster="">rly the sights that greeted Susie and me when we arrived for the first time in December of 2009. The sellers of patisseries displayed seasonal treats, like large chocolate figures of Saint Nicolas of Metz. They also displayed the usual, electrifying choice of cakes, pastries, cookies and other desserts, which seemed as vivid in real life as in my envious recollections back in El Paso.
</metz>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAlKI1RvM8EzXHSy-_wVr0Z9k5Tnha0U3Wurqu5VllTBxgFcQlFwDshRSGj_xksSTqqWQSkXTEJWH-D_yuoJy8Bz6ed8NJXEn5Na2mUSZGttjE0EQbW-XH5iyVsr7UVtylJjHKl2zJbstR/s1600/Patisserie.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 281px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAlKI1RvM8EzXHSy-_wVr0Z9k5Tnha0U3Wurqu5VllTBxgFcQlFwDshRSGj_xksSTqqWQSkXTEJWH-D_yuoJy8Bz6ed8NJXEn5Na2mUSZGttjE0EQbW-XH5iyVsr7UVtylJjHKl2zJbstR/s400/Patisserie.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560361269426657570" border="0" /></a><metz grande="" roue="" poster=""><st pastries="">Georgia Tech Lorraine continues to thrive. We missed the 20th-anniversary celebration, which brought in dignitaries from far and wide. We did have a chance to see my colleagues from the staff and to have dinner with some of my faculty colleagues. The students I'd taught had left for Atlanta, though. I still occasionally hear from some of them via e-mail, I'm glad to say.
</st></metz>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-34072221291160047932011-01-09T17:18:00.000-08:002021-09-21T17:17:33.132-07:00A Return to MetzFor a week, over Thanksgiving, Susie and I returned to Metz to see friends and to get a refresher of Lorraine cuisine. Over the next several posts, I'll explain what's new in Metz, tour an exposition on the Nazi expulsions of residents of the Moselle in World War II, note the commemoration of Metz's liberation 66 years ago, visit the Place de la Republique, tour St Julien-les-Metz, share a few details that caught my eye, and wrap up with some memories of the three communities in Metz with whom Susie and I are entwined.David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-42930698304391815672010-06-19T15:16:00.000-07:002021-09-21T17:17:53.492-07:00Contrasts<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTy9mHG89RDXE1SOP7dLI4jlUpZ55Qhyphenhyphenej1yeojYzqGFDoH7UMA_JTwI05AJomIbPVDtIKKoTI6PmUcKkT801YR-cniDTos0BEx6fcmWT8sCpQg9D_s01ynhYGnmdO0HYycp5iHv9hRq0v/s1600/Contrast+Rheims+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 258px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTy9mHG89RDXE1SOP7dLI4jlUpZ55Qhyphenhyphenej1yeojYzqGFDoH7UMA_JTwI05AJomIbPVDtIKKoTI6PmUcKkT801YR-cniDTos0BEx6fcmWT8sCpQg9D_s01ynhYGnmdO0HYycp5iHv9hRq0v/s400/Contrast+Rheims+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484612679703949458" border="0" /></a>Rheims
</div>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-65077018027453313862010-06-18T16:09:00.000-07:002021-09-21T17:18:30.005-07:00DetailsDetails of statues in Paris...
<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDRX25qtM9ZoOdAq1ho78dfnzmunKRguQqrS-FyZxqR_yTxwon4I1R5gMCStHtg_sCMhheDgW_1AZsWP8pSt0uAWdeJm5IB58_qc4fSX3uIwDoeLlttlImF4V6bVt9RrK5fz6c2qDCyax/s1600/Paris+Details+5+Pont+Neuf.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 291px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDRX25qtM9ZoOdAq1ho78dfnzmunKRguQqrS-FyZxqR_yTxwon4I1R5gMCStHtg_sCMhheDgW_1AZsWP8pSt0uAWdeJm5IB58_qc4fSX3uIwDoeLlttlImF4V6bVt9RrK5fz6c2qDCyax/s400/Paris+Details+5+Pont+Neuf.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484256696827590642" border="0" /></a>Faces on the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pont_Neuf">Pont Neuf</a>, allegedly caricatures of Henry II's advisors
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzhf21xuvDXBx2jtRmW6UArcI6ny3FvmgeovlS8bDqo1roLAnsVFJa-Tbn8AgbMzKpM3Wl_LC6ZPwGwNmOMNvNF6OGc_jhQvOG5n8k8kdgyASAdO1ph8Q5JaHCpS60JuWSLFv8MnbSbd46/s1600/Paris+Details+5+Louvre.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzhf21xuvDXBx2jtRmW6UArcI6ny3FvmgeovlS8bDqo1roLAnsVFJa-Tbn8AgbMzKpM3Wl_LC6ZPwGwNmOMNvNF6OGc_jhQvOG5n8k8kdgyASAdO1ph8Q5JaHCpS60JuWSLFv8MnbSbd46/s400/Paris+Details+5+Louvre.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484256581405069922" border="0" /></a><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palais_du_Louvre">Louvre</a> frieze, along the Seine
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjABqdLDaF2YfNHTm3wEFtBRR15fM8LNtrIQxwHwDgM8cnVHercfxRBJD1p1ioxqQXTSuwebufLFnRUU7ZiPlARohjHLVjqHK6d1SVR-4KZh8EN5Ux1DXwLs-6F8khVPkd9dso6gydmWuv/s1600/Paris+Details+4+Marguerite+dAngouleme.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 262px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjABqdLDaF2YfNHTm3wEFtBRR15fM8LNtrIQxwHwDgM8cnVHercfxRBJD1p1ioxqQXTSuwebufLFnRUU7ZiPlARohjHLVjqHK6d1SVR-4KZh8EN5Ux1DXwLs-6F8khVPkd9dso6gydmWuv/s400/Paris+Details+4+Marguerite+dAngouleme.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484256454266382898" border="0" /></a><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marguerite_de_Navarre">Marguerite d'Anglouleme</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jardin_du_Luxembourg">Jardin du Luxembourg</a>
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfRNVJGDWYI-VBIIxdA6CQwe_42HWB-5kBOyUA29aKI2R0rCMLwYvAwl68IOdQDW09jMbk7HPNZFR25K1ojzWX4gVYKppb-GioLrK7EEQC_1_8lxJbVd8baxeaWZ66sroPY298mN7HpDUx/s1600/Paris+Details+5+St-Sulpice+Lion.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 312px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfRNVJGDWYI-VBIIxdA6CQwe_42HWB-5kBOyUA29aKI2R0rCMLwYvAwl68IOdQDW09jMbk7HPNZFR25K1ojzWX4gVYKppb-GioLrK7EEQC_1_8lxJbVd8baxeaWZ66sroPY298mN7HpDUx/s400/Paris+Details+5+St-Sulpice+Lion.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484256319519744226" border="0" /></a>Lion, fountain in front of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Sulpice_%28Paris%29">St-Sulpice</a>
</div>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-65143821494307386082010-06-18T16:04:00.001-07:002021-09-21T17:18:41.986-07:00Textures<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrSaghGKvon2ZYJQqsz4_Yc4sxbGOBNe6JSAxAh4zrj7riAQPdGZMTTNo-QkTZ84b5K7Qm9i6VOIl4cN4ekJy5nuBFpcP2aAbIozpJqj_q4rgBuS1nA-ths1bcFX-AlevIwVtH9PRzYp9R/s1600/Texture+Rheims+Synagogue.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrSaghGKvon2ZYJQqsz4_Yc4sxbGOBNe6JSAxAh4zrj7riAQPdGZMTTNo-QkTZ84b5K7Qm9i6VOIl4cN4ekJy5nuBFpcP2aAbIozpJqj_q4rgBuS1nA-ths1bcFX-AlevIwVtH9PRzYp9R/s400/Texture+Rheims+Synagogue.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484253481669449250" border="0" /></a>Rheims Synagogue
</div>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-31265960607149029302010-06-18T16:02:00.000-07:002021-09-21T17:18:52.600-07:00Textures<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-IPdpDGzZ0I7nluhsrS8R4eOBXCQVkbbcZaS2fnJbwtT6ZWsI6tCW9HiKZee00QoNgkvsw377gg4SpGaaIUGcuiQpJeha7pUAtTZd9ro3gZ5efafuZhcvY1O4FZ7AevjwFHxwvEzaz3wa/s1600/Texture+L%27Epine.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 284px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-IPdpDGzZ0I7nluhsrS8R4eOBXCQVkbbcZaS2fnJbwtT6ZWsI6tCW9HiKZee00QoNgkvsw377gg4SpGaaIUGcuiQpJeha7pUAtTZd9ro3gZ5efafuZhcvY1O4FZ7AevjwFHxwvEzaz3wa/s400/Texture+L%27Epine.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484253229074634530" border="0" /></a>Notre Dame de l'Epine
</div>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-36158769892383074532010-06-18T15:17:00.000-07:002021-09-21T17:19:14.501-07:00Towns in the Champagne RegionOn our way back from Rheims to Metz, to collect our luggage and head home to the USA, Susie and I visited two towns in the Champagne region, Chalons-en-Champagne and l'Epine.
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C3%A2lons-en-Champagne">Chalons-en-Champagne</a>, with its twin rivers, the Mau and Nau, has a great deal of charm and a very helpful <a href="http://www.chalons-tourisme.com/english.php">tourist office</a>. The main square has sidewalk restaurants, half-timbered buildings, and a hotel that, as noted by a plaque, hosted Joan of Arc and her retinue. We ate a nice lunch at one of the restaurants.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAGWk_5AhJ6Hp1RiNU3PhNMDqleSs0X5Lt5lMntG2LZiMj2HiSJ4PYP6AlbjoQZmSRJQe9ViHdDkQY7ONREw7eTN4heGYGL-5Y4Q3R6YoLc2y4dBA3isnIeVgIwtjJ7xCoTQBEsJWLuAKF/s1600/Chalons+Place+de+la+Republique.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 260px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAGWk_5AhJ6Hp1RiNU3PhNMDqleSs0X5Lt5lMntG2LZiMj2HiSJ4PYP6AlbjoQZmSRJQe9ViHdDkQY7ONREw7eTN4heGYGL-5Y4Q3R6YoLc2y4dBA3isnIeVgIwtjJ7xCoTQBEsJWLuAKF/s400/Chalons+Place+de+la+Republique.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484252599912860738" border="0" /></a>The city's covered market looks like it's new, but the traditional vendors are still there in force. Note the fancy way the cauliflowers are displayed.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkCfigMvUfqdL1SFknDqjQcZe7TUY36OxVrVvmjB7zDO4x81DvkHVsq2g2UT4xLF37YCUUg0zkbRQFuZ0A6hILVCVZiXz_L8gZMovRdz0R3SqMp2aMEliHd_niSJwxIQsaM6KfeZeAjR4/s1600/Chalons+Marche.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 251px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkCfigMvUfqdL1SFknDqjQcZe7TUY36OxVrVvmjB7zDO4x81DvkHVsq2g2UT4xLF37YCUUg0zkbRQFuZ0A6hILVCVZiXz_L8gZMovRdz0R3SqMp2aMEliHd_niSJwxIQsaM6KfeZeAjR4/s400/Chalons+Marche.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484252465905175826" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTU-pSuQRZde6gDLGrRWaVRvNtm-VVVJmUtSLhUk4tosmdh9IHwNfiGZ7EoB_B8qEBAArdkCGyDEDaXlvzTabZwUmtmEtsfsIIAGn023gLKlHw9Vao_jg-vklO60nlojcpj_6zqaKz7pdq/s1600/Chalons+Synagogue.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 230px; height: 273px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTU-pSuQRZde6gDLGrRWaVRvNtm-VVVJmUtSLhUk4tosmdh9IHwNfiGZ7EoB_B8qEBAArdkCGyDEDaXlvzTabZwUmtmEtsfsIIAGn023gLKlHw9Vao_jg-vklO60nlojcpj_6zqaKz7pdq/s400/Chalons+Synagogue.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484252272963959938" border="0" /></a>Chalons also has a nice <a href="http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synagogue_de_Ch%C3%A2lons-en-Champagne">synagogue</a>. We didn't get to visit the interior, but the exterior is in the Moorish style that characterizes many of the synagogues of the region. Chalons's synagogue was designed by a local architect, Alexis Vagny, and built in 1874-1875 as part of the great wave of synagogue construction that followed the granting of full citizenship to French Jews by the Crémieux decrees of 1870. Chalons still has an active Jewish community, and the synagogue is in use.
A little further along the road toward Metz, we stopped at the village of <a href="http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%27%C3%89pine_%28Marne%29">l'Epine</a>, whose chief claim to fame is its basilica, Notre Dame de l'Epine. This interesting church has a couple of notable contrasts. First, from afar, it looks huge, like the cathedral in Rheims. You can see the basilica from miles away, its <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiifUaUs9oV1c6ln9jhJYAq2hhWM6QY-tbOnKNerQtFrIo3zKKb7CN_-rzW20LRXy7DG3MADQMl2Dwhyn5iwNqXgd8sGRtWIiCnMVyaYcTD1ZUdCOLTDzYxfoocXE_MBmk6sLfX3MHZIhKf/s1600/L'Epine+Facade.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 261px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiifUaUs9oV1c6ln9jhJYAq2hhWM6QY-tbOnKNerQtFrIo3zKKb7CN_-rzW20LRXy7DG3MADQMl2Dwhyn5iwNqXgd8sGRtWIiCnMVyaYcTD1ZUdCOLTDzYxfoocXE_MBmk6sLfX3MHZIhKf/s400/L'Epine+Facade.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484252085946412754" border="0" /></a>towers standing tall on the horizon. Up close, it's more like a scaled-down version of a cathedral, with all the trappings but just smaller. Second, the basilica combines some of the most graceful and luminous Gothic architecture with other windows that are dark and heavy.
The town is named for a thorn bush, in which shepherds apparently found a statue of the Virgin Mary. Construction on the basilica started in 1406 and was completed around 1527. The basilica houses numerous works of religious art and notable 16th-Century pipe organ. The facade is ornate, but the rest of the church is simpler. The flying buttresses are particularly graceful and light; compare these buttresses to those the St-Remi basilica, for instance.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUsXlPGuMZCaOczxFoGQPl8ZeeKvelIttn27wcIgkq01D90zY6TKrVPazNh9kkINitaiRjWG_zWvbUwioLkKG2X1D9FEte3s_Qm8pZpz7joYk8w1yde3-9BpHF_XMMXXzwqVjBd8xrWMs/s1600/L'Epine+Buttresses.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUsXlPGuMZCaOczxFoGQPl8ZeeKvelIttn27wcIgkq01D90zY6TKrVPazNh9kkINitaiRjWG_zWvbUwioLkKG2X1D9FEte3s_Qm8pZpz7joYk8w1yde3-9BpHF_XMMXXzwqVjBd8xrWMs/s400/L'Epine+Buttresses.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484251747328016210" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzfYjEoAisbrUiGIi8FGad48RAJ8GzS3BxOts5S3VRAo4uotuNOzEDEhjN5wKvItJwOoFu0TexlLer4QERzuO3fDu2PwRXWpkqmWlPrBA6B8TZgkhxKKieOSc-EC-8-gQsqNhysiM8jPS/s1600/L'Epine+Interior.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 333px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzfYjEoAisbrUiGIi8FGad48RAJ8GzS3BxOts5S3VRAo4uotuNOzEDEhjN5wKvItJwOoFu0TexlLer4QERzuO3fDu2PwRXWpkqmWlPrBA6B8TZgkhxKKieOSc-EC-8-gQsqNhysiM8jPS/s400/L'Epine+Interior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484251531760974386" border="0" /></a>The interior is relatively simple, with a unity of style of that recalls churches of a century or two before the basilica's construction. Thus Notre Dame de l'Epine combines the lightness of late Gothic architecture with the simplicity of early Gothic.
Most of the basilica's stained glass was lost over the years. Here are the remnants of the original 16th-Century glass.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6JPdq8-qeFaJesvp2NWuc7NcZKCI09nEo6E2VjvCFiiB-X_DvrkQbBAjlJ5D7io6Ak4YTHX_a45B7LsBl9z05D5RpifRjRqEVXi6ffnE0J7fW-O1srxUGG_C53KOugw9DLQLpSeO_VTvL/s1600/L'Epine+Medieval+Glass.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 209px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6JPdq8-qeFaJesvp2NWuc7NcZKCI09nEo6E2VjvCFiiB-X_DvrkQbBAjlJ5D7io6Ak4YTHX_a45B7LsBl9z05D5RpifRjRqEVXi6ffnE0J7fW-O1srxUGG_C53KOugw9DLQLpSeO_VTvL/s400/L'Epine+Medieval+Glass.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484251043124477394" border="0" /></a>In contrast to the lightness of the nave, with great bright windows made possible by those elegant buttresses, the rose window of the west front harkens back to an early Gothic style, with solid and resolute stone framing that's centuries removed from the rose windows of, say, the cathedral and basilica in Rheims.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhciWcFo_fOdNMflk_FpbczOswBq3zWdH8ougDm3gh5RRKVY6aLifQRjadzrdgJbBKIQ7aPZbdAa_tJzz_hdeuWfnBRRQlNldRNqPb6FJvDWdFbhHlREueZ_wEBTFut6tUe5SaqJR5hR0WH/s1600/L'Epine+Rose+Window.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhciWcFo_fOdNMflk_FpbczOswBq3zWdH8ougDm3gh5RRKVY6aLifQRjadzrdgJbBKIQ7aPZbdAa_tJzz_hdeuWfnBRRQlNldRNqPb6FJvDWdFbhHlREueZ_wEBTFut6tUe5SaqJR5hR0WH/s400/L'Epine+Rose+Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484250697898142610" border="0" /></a>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-35658595328926552902010-06-15T22:52:00.000-07:002021-09-21T17:19:40.409-07:00Textures<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim19f8ZOcAwpwKlktKQmqIK7Q1sPSqnYi3LZSrI6F7d8k1JYDvTaQeXKECC2E7UsOPYIQOLPypnTN0kCSNKnCAlnMW_Q_DOAPaVv-_CfM2xJoxEfqU7XfTEcAEFWIifOQRZPm2biSbbsQG/s1600/Rheims+Carnegie+Library+Texture.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 281px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim19f8ZOcAwpwKlktKQmqIK7Q1sPSqnYi3LZSrI6F7d8k1JYDvTaQeXKECC2E7UsOPYIQOLPypnTN0kCSNKnCAlnMW_Q_DOAPaVv-_CfM2xJoxEfqU7XfTEcAEFWIifOQRZPm2biSbbsQG/s400/Rheims+Carnegie+Library+Texture.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483245637664628130" border="0" /></a>Carnegie Library, Rheims</div>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-4100026187324334902010-06-15T22:46:00.001-07:002021-09-21T17:19:54.323-07:00Art-Deco Details in RheimsRheims, with its wealth of Art-Deco buildings, offers an overwhelming number of interesting architectural details. Here's a small sampling.
The first two are from houses.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG7Kwct3OmRzmHzEj8j4hjAJyThw7G8xTqHDFRy069BYkzf-7_avqE8Q_thFjSf1oUPhVyTt3SuClF6rnrTb1PsZQasYiRae6LX-NRyAKM-0oNW3urlS5zdmSA_W1GapNOCjt6PtrMejeM/s1600/Rheims+Art+Deco+Detail+1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 179px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG7Kwct3OmRzmHzEj8j4hjAJyThw7G8xTqHDFRy069BYkzf-7_avqE8Q_thFjSf1oUPhVyTt3SuClF6rnrTb1PsZQasYiRae6LX-NRyAKM-0oNW3urlS5zdmSA_W1GapNOCjt6PtrMejeM/s400/Rheims+Art+Deco+Detail+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483244742283600866" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXl3P-goL0O_UlLNQSD23sKwMAwLWlZrGmAm37v5mpflLz9_2JLoTlZ5vQrqzFAjbCVRbym8TgW3uxp4DuosjPjmXu3fNnIHJ9Y6GlxL4HZuAYB8kXYJmAFz1cgrSAM3YLBKilXpdfizIa/s1600/Rheims+Art+Deco+Detail+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXl3P-goL0O_UlLNQSD23sKwMAwLWlZrGmAm37v5mpflLz9_2JLoTlZ5vQrqzFAjbCVRbym8TgW3uxp4DuosjPjmXu3fNnIHJ9Y6GlxL4HZuAYB8kXYJmAFz1cgrSAM3YLBKilXpdfizIa/s400/Rheims+Art+Deco+Detail+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483244654956246706" border="0" /></a>The next is from the interior of a bakery.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9LHeM3mEx3OCbNAcYNEBWjE8_CW63eOtwThPDFpZYuX-BAD_6dCL5q-tJy4r_zUP8q2Qg7Um_j8ZtyMs-LA4eo3-ZeIBGipY2LrbDO3fu0aXZUM3MrdIf6U9r4hOSB2S_V1SfrYSEvBa/s1600/Rheims+Art+Deco+Detail+3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 155px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9LHeM3mEx3OCbNAcYNEBWjE8_CW63eOtwThPDFpZYuX-BAD_6dCL5q-tJy4r_zUP8q2Qg7Um_j8ZtyMs-LA4eo3-ZeIBGipY2LrbDO3fu0aXZUM3MrdIf6U9r4hOSB2S_V1SfrYSEvBa/s400/Rheims+Art+Deco+Detail+3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483244488268540242" border="0" /></a>This is a section of a frieze on the facade of the Carnegie Library.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqJWk0ZisUCErBM453hZzjuKvDXKGuLeplDdctxA6YMqrE_vocwRTcDaJ4Y4IjJ1Ohs6tbU8taPzbqwT61wglucHIR0l5qvICNgDH7RmbIRGJvEY9CYdAIt3o0j0gP0QJ1K9qCIbtsS-i-/s1600/Rheims+Carnegie+Library+Mosaic+Frieze.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 343px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqJWk0ZisUCErBM453hZzjuKvDXKGuLeplDdctxA6YMqrE_vocwRTcDaJ4Y4IjJ1Ohs6tbU8taPzbqwT61wglucHIR0l5qvICNgDH7RmbIRGJvEY9CYdAIt3o0j0gP0QJ1K9qCIbtsS-i-/s400/Rheims+Carnegie+Library+Mosaic+Frieze.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483244349698373986" border="0" /></a>The last two details come from the Opera cinema: one of series of stained-glass lights below the awning, and part of the facade's main frieze.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aKpOOHSn_ZJHsamn2Xs9JsGUbNuaT8b8r1_0Lxn5hQSJ7uc3OmdhwDLjavluVIm-LR2ZiUbmHZnNxmEm915UsZZNhdYhNISJ3bQ8u4nW1BjZ5cXnicGC1ADqoYWhh656UgmHAhyphenhyphenPi3uX/s1600/Rheims+Opera+Cinema+Detail+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 248px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aKpOOHSn_ZJHsamn2Xs9JsGUbNuaT8b8r1_0Lxn5hQSJ7uc3OmdhwDLjavluVIm-LR2ZiUbmHZnNxmEm915UsZZNhdYhNISJ3bQ8u4nW1BjZ5cXnicGC1ADqoYWhh656UgmHAhyphenhyphenPi3uX/s400/Rheims+Opera+Cinema+Detail+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483244190742637890" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFWBW7rWeiucOLl95mFN1wpUF_QCgr1Gs9wQfmoXF96epG2bJ-Ht9WTs7jB3gwsgU424yT7zzmWaQIXPBEcciUXvMrcPq2KojTz0y3eIfC0kfgXCFKKt8e71MHicUjZY_a3NTm4-_X7Dn8/s1600/Rheims+Opera+Cinema+Detail.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 334px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFWBW7rWeiucOLl95mFN1wpUF_QCgr1Gs9wQfmoXF96epG2bJ-Ht9WTs7jB3gwsgU424yT7zzmWaQIXPBEcciUXvMrcPq2KojTz0y3eIfC0kfgXCFKKt8e71MHicUjZY_a3NTm4-_X7Dn8/s400/Rheims+Opera+Cinema+Detail.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483244009964696050" border="0" /></a>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-42506825129648269922010-06-12T13:46:00.000-07:002010-10-27T21:52:46.708-07:00Saint-Remi Abbey and BasilicaWhile the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reims">Rheims</a> cathedral glorifies the spot at Clovis was baptised in 496, the basilica and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abbey_of_Saint-Remi">abbey of Saint-Remi</a> glorify the bishop who performed the baptism. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Remi">Saint Remi</a>, child of the Gallo-Roman elite and a noted scholar, was appointed Bishop of Rheims at the age of 22. He fostered close relations with Clovis, king of the Franks, who was busily conquering most of what would become the nation of France. Remi, with the support of Clovis's wife Clotilde, a Catholic Burgundian princess and subsequently named a saint, converted Clovis to Catholicism at the baptism commemorated by the Rheims cathedral.<br /><br />The abbey of Saint-Remi was founded in the 6th Century. The abbey's current basilica was built in the 11th Century, and Saint Remi's relics were transfered to the basilica in 1099. Parts of the church were rebuilt and enlarged in the 12th through 15th Centuries. Further additions were made in the 17th and 19th Centuries. Remi's tomb still lies in the basilica's choir; the adjoining buildings of the abbey now house the <a href="http://www.ville-reims.fr/index.php?id=155">St-Remi Museum</a>, Rheim's museum of history and archeology.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSQIxLgiRwfUmqXMWv6lxegkm3iFiZJq2eBgKScPrVxxP7vanyBhkMvpkPBqpH5G9aaR-GcJmRFTSekBohMHw53X3hpbVjCDW1KB92y5XUU0XLknYpLxwsIJtyXMMkXI4PKnBdmTHEV5FH/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Flying+Buttresses.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSQIxLgiRwfUmqXMWv6lxegkm3iFiZJq2eBgKScPrVxxP7vanyBhkMvpkPBqpH5G9aaR-GcJmRFTSekBohMHw53X3hpbVjCDW1KB92y5XUU0XLknYpLxwsIJtyXMMkXI4PKnBdmTHEV5FH/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Flying+Buttresses.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483241869131362130" border="0" /></a>The basilica, as it now stands, is an interesting amalgam of late Romanesque and early Gothic styles. The mixture is not as jarring as in the basilica at Dinan, where one side of the nave is Romanesque and the other side Gothic. But if you look, you can see the change of styles, for example, in the extension of the nave, where the two newest bays are Gothic.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvebFmHqUyaYA9UeBOwB42zsyjxPVUHc7mHAuzAlMis0d7nT4-G75L-FboDmif85uKcLDqoLCzeKFAdoi8erk-X4sRuoyQJpVEpwBZXOaPk2WqDh1J1m4S7lmg0TWc-6-2dVcCI-IuVOp4/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Nave.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 297px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvebFmHqUyaYA9UeBOwB42zsyjxPVUHc7mHAuzAlMis0d7nT4-G75L-FboDmif85uKcLDqoLCzeKFAdoi8erk-X4sRuoyQJpVEpwBZXOaPk2WqDh1J1m4S7lmg0TWc-6-2dVcCI-IuVOp4/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Nave.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483241476207853954" border="0" /></a>While the basilica has some vertical elements, it retains the layers of horizontal solidity that characterize Romanesque architecture.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhum8MPRcVuYkaV8Plg0jThh20gXw0rXFbE97i4QSHBfvMafXNC1ihpjWAw9W_atg2NPGOdZio2B1p6ICtVfU6KgeQ05JTOwJdupFFRjvTJz4X180vvjTds9tVnf_uHlI_WmKrRMqfWUnI0/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Interior.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 263px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhum8MPRcVuYkaV8Plg0jThh20gXw0rXFbE97i4QSHBfvMafXNC1ihpjWAw9W_atg2NPGOdZio2B1p6ICtVfU6KgeQ05JTOwJdupFFRjvTJz4X180vvjTds9tVnf_uHlI_WmKrRMqfWUnI0/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Interior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483241196087744834" border="0" /></a>These sorts of tiers also characterize the basilica's facade.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPX-Fd8cReEfCKQuyBxlQ8si8TmRxRZ1GV5QDNt_-BueQ_maJZMM4nzh-pcwIqnv_q4F7cImisMm7lBRHy1ztRUDuN9FbWrt_2dSyBwSvQgb1dgeD_RaUtIj7VleHIdTikLnf7tAO4zNn/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Facade.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPX-Fd8cReEfCKQuyBxlQ8si8TmRxRZ1GV5QDNt_-BueQ_maJZMM4nzh-pcwIqnv_q4F7cImisMm7lBRHy1ztRUDuN9FbWrt_2dSyBwSvQgb1dgeD_RaUtIj7VleHIdTikLnf7tAO4zNn/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Facade.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483241004102605522" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40zdJEZHNR_2iM5r5qp8WFvQt-4-JJKYIUG4YXcSPrDdem6mFOCFpEbsUZuQjN453wcVJgzD3dtu04oxWfm99rqJb__jIzLHTPkfLvdSdxfKJ37fMBsteH4_dJ_pEWvypj9x5fHezzqjS/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Tomb.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 280px; height: 363px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40zdJEZHNR_2iM5r5qp8WFvQt-4-JJKYIUG4YXcSPrDdem6mFOCFpEbsUZuQjN453wcVJgzD3dtu04oxWfm99rqJb__jIzLHTPkfLvdSdxfKJ37fMBsteH4_dJ_pEWvypj9x5fHezzqjS/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Tomb.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483240780172070722" border="0" /></a><br /><br />In the choir, surrounding Saint-Remi's tomb, the multiple levels of arches and windows actually serve to make the space seem higher.<br /><br />While much of the basilica's stained glass was destroyed in the two world wars, the windows were rebuilt with great care and taste. For instance, this transept rose window has traditional stained glass that brings jewel-toned light into the church.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9g6WURq8eZwB-AaNRAAzM8x7bfOPAnchTAjsLxEevmbsqZbGZDG2ghVl231mZU_jt8joMZjrsm4K60jpo58fcIcyWTv2bFUIltJRnBVdlekFYIIfXOINebEncqPu8pUfWD4khiHkviJJ/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Transept+Window.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 324px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9g6WURq8eZwB-AaNRAAzM8x7bfOPAnchTAjsLxEevmbsqZbGZDG2ghVl231mZU_jt8joMZjrsm4K60jpo58fcIcyWTv2bFUIltJRnBVdlekFYIIfXOINebEncqPu8pUfWD4khiHkviJJ/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Transept+Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483240605233402738" border="0" /></a>Other windows have glass in more modern styles, but the glass serves to highlight the beauty of the windows' Gothic stonework. For example, this lower transept window is organic and flowing.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPRRjMVcIUztLx4bP7WYBeVlpnJAXefZKSYNdbJc0cRkUZVAUNU4c63swrxkZ-WA2TPKvoMXy6_dTLfIs7Les_D9wg1xieZmbMd4vwfd6-NdZ59rfqOp_s9v9kMKzCdQ0P6LSw18mElRSO/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Transept+Lower+Window.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 277px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPRRjMVcIUztLx4bP7WYBeVlpnJAXefZKSYNdbJc0cRkUZVAUNU4c63swrxkZ-WA2TPKvoMXy6_dTLfIs7Les_D9wg1xieZmbMd4vwfd6-NdZ59rfqOp_s9v9kMKzCdQ0P6LSw18mElRSO/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Basilica+Transept+Lower+Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483240422708815906" border="0" /></a>An<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmTs7xsK1FvltcVuJxexCVFv9q7RKDMual3BMLQDJjjSAOZyLRb0v9cPtezgo80LJwQwedQpcNqQG9Lh3GFKa3kErCSvcTHziGDzdUWjTelH6wjT3YX47bgsSH5Wtj_xPju61Gy4hR7D9/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Flamboyant+Window.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 260px; height: 355px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmTs7xsK1FvltcVuJxexCVFv9q7RKDMual3BMLQDJjjSAOZyLRb0v9cPtezgo80LJwQwedQpcNqQG9Lh3GFKa3kErCSvcTHziGDzdUWjTelH6wjT3YX47bgsSH5Wtj_xPju61Gy4hR7D9/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Flamboyant+Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483240228531159922" border="0" /></a>d this window, with its motif of birds (this relates to Saint-Remi, for reasons that are too incredible and arcane to warrrant explanation here), provides great illumination, verticality, and exuberance.<br /><br />The other buildings of the abbey are adjacent to the basilica. Actually, it would be hard to be more adjacent, as the buildings are built right up against the basilica's north walls, in the spaces between the buttresses. The neoclassical style of the cloister is interrupted--sectioned--by the buttresses.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyxFywGvwfFN4XgcPgxzA2HQ1iD8afVGN6mJuwVxV2z78930vi0YR198BEmfO8zGN3DH1mIS-w1_IwFrqSZYj6Q8denbV16OP0E68KYSFCfpgiU6dKXXB4IOqthixbOp9S4SAH972lk5Ec/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Cloister+Buttresses.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 272px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyxFywGvwfFN4XgcPgxzA2HQ1iD8afVGN6mJuwVxV2z78930vi0YR198BEmfO8zGN3DH1mIS-w1_IwFrqSZYj6Q8denbV16OP0E68KYSFCfpgiU6dKXXB4IOqthixbOp9S4SAH972lk5Ec/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Cloister+Buttresses.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483239997731018114" border="0" /></a>The upper-floor gallery along this side of the cloister show the arches of these flying buttresses.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhyphenhyphenlfC7U8JqIXVArGevYl_79Mbtrbr5mMCL86BMgC3axA8ugTn1azuzoNiB52tbIhHI4ZX193XODmU6ksqtCd9p8Ru77MJxy7PT5UlvWJUXUhWnxPyuA9Vt-8G1dG0fIgJ43mWc_q7IDz/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Buttresses.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 279px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhyphenhyphenlfC7U8JqIXVArGevYl_79Mbtrbr5mMCL86BMgC3axA8ugTn1azuzoNiB52tbIhHI4ZX193XODmU6ksqtCd9p8Ru77MJxy7PT5UlvWJUXUhWnxPyuA9Vt-8G1dG0fIgJ43mWc_q7IDz/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Buttresses.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483239779445619554" border="0" /></a>The other sides of the cloister harmoniously and uniformly reflect the neoclassical classical style without interruption.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGYlZPwkzd1wHv5k-KJu6lndWpt8Lz8oKWaZlB9O_6rYspHdUOPdWrANu5S4OZexpYx_6LF97rdxSeCOaH7tEZLxYzHewU5XO1einHml2VVNpvMvkFVI5PSYGjIVa2tKUROzTP0AETr0iD/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Cloister.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 257px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGYlZPwkzd1wHv5k-KJu6lndWpt8Lz8oKWaZlB9O_6rYspHdUOPdWrANu5S4OZexpYx_6LF97rdxSeCOaH7tEZLxYzHewU5XO1einHml2VVNpvMvkFVI5PSYGjIVa2tKUROzTP0AETr0iD/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Cloister.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483239494516597138" border="0" /></a>Some of the museum's rooms are really beautiful, such as this Gothic hall.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQzk5qHv07VgHUUJ8_Hb5Xa5wdDXGg0vx8cPi5VZV_ZOCcXO7ngG_XxMuD3MwDNmYJ9SO4qEJD1myiaZwKgh44SIH_noCZA7ut4kitOSk3QfwYqXMP64b8jBlJxBwMcNp9jSZodR0cDXyY/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Gothic+Room.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 258px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQzk5qHv07VgHUUJ8_Hb5Xa5wdDXGg0vx8cPi5VZV_ZOCcXO7ngG_XxMuD3MwDNmYJ9SO4qEJD1myiaZwKgh44SIH_noCZA7ut4kitOSk3QfwYqXMP64b8jBlJxBwMcNp9jSZodR0cDXyY/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Gothic+Room.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483239330378980178" border="0" /></a>The museum tells the story of Rheims, starting with prehistory. It contains some remarkable Roman mosaics, including this enormous depiction of gladiators.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsBkcTXWsKBDmu_q3S46ZTaaHf5HXyOYLX6w183SkUXgdw6QF-NdfJLBgudSI_2pp7lBfYog7zqG0b7M8VpoKqY9z6fFbq_8JhOeDyJKfKReCQHlA7Durt5NtxCYfaeqxAbUSMvRNVH7qV/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Gallo-Roman+Mosaic.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 298px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsBkcTXWsKBDmu_q3S46ZTaaHf5HXyOYLX6w183SkUXgdw6QF-NdfJLBgudSI_2pp7lBfYog7zqG0b7M8VpoKqY9z6fFbq_8JhOeDyJKfKReCQHlA7Durt5NtxCYfaeqxAbUSMvRNVH7qV/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Gallo-Roman+Mosaic.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483239012975259474" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ8pZ2VfPvMlFvlqp6uKauR7v7PJyFn2-l7OjOpRUrUaIY1tUeCxiy7fb_Mo30dLPn6guB8Hndp_DxPuvJfKjH-8wbOBK2qux28AXfAHvo23WpAsIhrXyGeT79zftnDXgb3sNHR2sr-1Ht/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Necklace.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 185px; height: 276px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ8pZ2VfPvMlFvlqp6uKauR7v7PJyFn2-l7OjOpRUrUaIY1tUeCxiy7fb_Mo30dLPn6guB8Hndp_DxPuvJfKjH-8wbOBK2qux28AXfAHvo23WpAsIhrXyGeT79zftnDXgb3sNHR2sr-1Ht/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Necklace.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483238781774023650" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />This 7th-Century necklace was made with pearls of amber and rounds of glass.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFrxQfVU-nHyDA3b6UqIgMFjyJMf-B98hiRIoYK60qFNtfbd-Tj8zCcndRIh_5Fdkl86AXxQZce-FqbYT8ika40js9Vm6IJqWEj7QEr1Jd_FEX6lG6FZR9fB6sXAvTHQGIt8s5acHkcII/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Tapestry.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFrxQfVU-nHyDA3b6UqIgMFjyJMf-B98hiRIoYK60qFNtfbd-Tj8zCcndRIh_5Fdkl86AXxQZce-FqbYT8ika40js9Vm6IJqWEj7QEr1Jd_FEX6lG6FZR9fB6sXAvTHQGIt8s5acHkcII/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Tapestry.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483238570647072450" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />One of the museum's highlights is a set of medieval tapestries depicting the life of Saint-Remi. This panel, the right half of one of the tapestries, depicts Remi baptizing Clovis. The king, in the basin, is attended to by Remi, who wears a golden mitre.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQunXbWK50sI_foqsKpMP_q0UsRSyuPAKf8s88V3CC3AQGHvbyWLGdaF5Hin0ZTg8HR9HziZ_Dp1gqCHZHQV4MKfBFNYhePjuOIwSOy2wExCLi_P6XXmfxKpNP6BqltwYKAemBSoIjevTV/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Staircase.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 270px; height: 329px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQunXbWK50sI_foqsKpMP_q0UsRSyuPAKf8s88V3CC3AQGHvbyWLGdaF5Hin0ZTg8HR9HziZ_Dp1gqCHZHQV4MKfBFNYhePjuOIwSOy2wExCLi_P6XXmfxKpNP6BqltwYKAemBSoIjevTV/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Staircase.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483238305856414930" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />The museum's main staircase is itself a work of art--symmetrical, light, ornate, and just plain huge.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLiyN8RPuYr5MUWUaRkzL-PHGAVcz7sxcAnnqc3G_VSPWpoD0M_tQuD06ZWVCl_32akWsFGFDFKeO0Kp1B2XDlSdQntzljfkoNvP_mpZBhxfRyRgpnmEdx8Lbb0mMnTQ-SMbg_GspCGJSb/s1600/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Louis+XV.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 323px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLiyN8RPuYr5MUWUaRkzL-PHGAVcz7sxcAnnqc3G_VSPWpoD0M_tQuD06ZWVCl_32akWsFGFDFKeO0Kp1B2XDlSdQntzljfkoNvP_mpZBhxfRyRgpnmEdx8Lbb0mMnTQ-SMbg_GspCGJSb/s400/Rheims+St-Remi+Abbey+Louis+XV.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483238107407942402" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Between the windows, on the far wall, hangs a portrait of Louis XV as a youth, wearing coronation robes. Indeed, he was crowned in the cathedral of Rheims so that he could rule with divine right, traced back to Clovis, conferred by Saint-Remi, for whom the abbey is named.David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-39470076957272398832010-06-12T13:43:00.001-07:002010-06-12T13:44:33.796-07:00Textures<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNa3MXPGtD-YF9Ey0NUBc-bIBtF0a9ayWZVDaqYKS5ah1WaE6nKi6ya1WSOcwH4uEyPvaxgVwvMFC2UolUGARhbYYcrPchWx6F7FVM0USorJgzbSV8ZEYqe4WssqqqW3-8OUzz4dZl5BW1/s1600/Rheims+Carnegie+Library+Texture+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 254px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNa3MXPGtD-YF9Ey0NUBc-bIBtF0a9ayWZVDaqYKS5ah1WaE6nKi6ya1WSOcwH4uEyPvaxgVwvMFC2UolUGARhbYYcrPchWx6F7FVM0USorJgzbSV8ZEYqe4WssqqqW3-8OUzz4dZl5BW1/s400/Rheims+Carnegie+Library+Texture+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481990832265565010" border="0" /></a>Carnegie Library, Rheims<br /></div>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-25572768399335687462010-06-12T12:46:00.000-07:002010-06-12T13:43:13.670-07:00Rheims's Cathedral<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigN3hVf8BbEHFhWgbgnt29oHknI1uYLFLWeru6f06qbmOZ2muopnqPqkNzXjOnp4uvxhppCEX9X4vH5F7ynvNwlOCJj-dAnehesaM90MU_Xgnmdk0_L1C8YRibOKT1onxpFKaJcqzOz_VM/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+Flying+Buttresses.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 274px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigN3hVf8BbEHFhWgbgnt29oHknI1uYLFLWeru6f06qbmOZ2muopnqPqkNzXjOnp4uvxhppCEX9X4vH5F7ynvNwlOCJj-dAnehesaM90MU_Xgnmdk0_L1C8YRibOKT1onxpFKaJcqzOz_VM/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+Flying+Buttresses.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481989161297699890" border="0" /></a>The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathedral_of_Notre-Dame,_Reims">cathedral of Rheims</a>, Notre-Dame, is one of the four most famous cathedrals in France, along with those of Paris, Saint-Denis, and perhaps Chartres. Apart from its religious and architectural interest, Rheim's cathedral is noted for its involvement with the French monarchy, starting with the baptism of Clovis in 496, through the coronation of French kings for over a thousand years, ending with the coronation of Charles X in 1824.<br /><br />The baptism of Clovis, in which the Frankish king Clovis converted to Christianity at the urging of his Catholic wife Clothilde after his victory at Tolbiac, stands as the point at which the country that became France first officially involved Catholicism. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9rvr6RCdCQJvjIR-HHRtw6ScqEzHkpgnHtV05UkCE02DVT-vS2-PlS2pB8k_FuuhMdhArX2Yprnm0PUqzC25dI4dB2yWjMl2EMQ0BW2hncZLWIzdN1XgAGTnhD173Vc6huEwvlGP7ljk/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+Baptism+of+Clovis.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 140px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9rvr6RCdCQJvjIR-HHRtw6ScqEzHkpgnHtV05UkCE02DVT-vS2-PlS2pB8k_FuuhMdhArX2Yprnm0PUqzC25dI4dB2yWjMl2EMQ0BW2hncZLWIzdN1XgAGTnhD173Vc6huEwvlGP7ljk/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+Baptism+of+Clovis.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481988982731980226" border="0" /></a>A stone in the center of the cathedral indicates the very spot of the baptism.<br /><br />To cement their reigns with the memory of Clovis, French kings, beginning with Louis the Debonnaire in 816, staged their coronations in Rheims. Thus for most of the kings of France this cathedral became the opening of the reign, which would end with their burial at the Basilica of Saint-Denis. The cathedral itself was built in the 13th and 14th Centuries, replacing a church, which had replaced the basilica of Clovis's baptism, which in turn had been built on the site of Rheims's Roman baths.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilMKLiqQMLCMKAvqFpGk6sV_IL1i1Ho0fuEGOXxQ7SaGJAl8NiP-0ojpZnzbWD-6rGSCY-_FafTAnD5g_PMqlM81ZOLq9ART0C62jJHqTTUWlaVVuqIkZRo1UnI7-3t2GT113yygS2ccMH/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+Facade.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 340px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilMKLiqQMLCMKAvqFpGk6sV_IL1i1Ho0fuEGOXxQ7SaGJAl8NiP-0ojpZnzbWD-6rGSCY-_FafTAnD5g_PMqlM81ZOLq9ART0C62jJHqTTUWlaVVuqIkZRo1UnI7-3t2GT113yygS2ccMH/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+Facade.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481988782827689778" border="0" /></a>The cathedral's facade has a strikingly consistent style, strongly vertical, and airy despite its mass. The cathedral was badly damaged in World War I. Restoration work began in 1919 and continues to this day.<br /><br />If the cathedral influenced the French kings, these kings in turn have left their mark on the cathedral. In particular, above the great rose window, statues of French kings stand across the cathedral's facade, with, in the center, Clovis being baptised.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPNMA63yQmjUwienoMeT9dVn9Fi4yDDVeiF70rJbvQdSqTJ_SsbbLwDu8aem2mbuP_bE7ZrOFo1MEjJbrkZGV-sKLcpu9B9AH215uaJnO6cED_0sdBke8ybAzaZ7iWutO-tv-qWm4OxU4a/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+Kings+of+France.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 278px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPNMA63yQmjUwienoMeT9dVn9Fi4yDDVeiF70rJbvQdSqTJ_SsbbLwDu8aem2mbuP_bE7ZrOFo1MEjJbrkZGV-sKLcpu9B9AH215uaJnO6cED_0sdBke8ybAzaZ7iWutO-tv-qWm4OxU4a/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+Kings+of+France.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481988623725472786" border="0" /></a>The facade also includes more fanciful figures, such at this gargoyle with the cast-metal head of cow.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwiMsbY3EC9IMgLi6RrDCcijt6-3cD7smzFFKcG2WE_7C5dnW1FEVMQf_AYXAdtE4CR8bVCRIpuFh03hR0hcNg9guYkOPz47zY-SrsnMANql3mNuXIlbaiAGW9vCvUc3gUYzBA3EMNWTxv/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+Gargoyle.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 302px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwiMsbY3EC9IMgLi6RrDCcijt6-3cD7smzFFKcG2WE_7C5dnW1FEVMQf_AYXAdtE4CR8bVCRIpuFh03hR0hcNg9guYkOPz47zY-SrsnMANql3mNuXIlbaiAGW9vCvUc3gUYzBA3EMNWTxv/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+Gargoyle.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481988428553015762" border="0" /></a>The interior of the cathedral is about as stately as you can get, all vertical lines, with columns designed to look graceful rather than just solid, topped by Corinthian capitals.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaBiImTfRByRx9_gOLKJluRpImQf9rXUIoFbj6M_czrFt9YDwKzOmLIGKj4CGYOu7WdcgOvVGUo2BroX9ZOtLBJhMeWbFTCqE5krmMlhbj3FK-qwGnnpPzVlnqLA4GiGSdLppZaufj0iCl/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+Interior.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 274px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaBiImTfRByRx9_gOLKJluRpImQf9rXUIoFbj6M_czrFt9YDwKzOmLIGKj4CGYOu7WdcgOvVGUo2BroX9ZOtLBJhMeWbFTCqE5krmMlhbj3FK-qwGnnpPzVlnqLA4GiGSdLppZaufj0iCl/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+Interior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481988229103622626" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCki90aNxGlBIQrYJbcMLnFHDYm_DiJ_Y_lWCzzbKeAnFVOjEmDcVHMKzjTxrfsN26aRitEyxVMFqBadM5pMVp-8ypqFAIdWdBizpJl1cyN-HqYNW86OekWPr2by3Gd4rKLFo9Zx9Bnqs/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+Triforium.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 294px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCki90aNxGlBIQrYJbcMLnFHDYm_DiJ_Y_lWCzzbKeAnFVOjEmDcVHMKzjTxrfsN26aRitEyxVMFqBadM5pMVp-8ypqFAIdWdBizpJl1cyN-HqYNW86OekWPr2by3Gd4rKLFo9Zx9Bnqs/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+Triforium.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481987974780091730" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />The cathedral's design has a great unity, as can be seen in this view of the corner of the nave and the south transept.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIhWMKkGgI8ue8V6EBgwesrERIkEAm-7Q-wWk_6tazLyLmklGjNuE_S_SnqpLUBZVU4mhGa9Ng9LbUp7Hyes7fAzE5TuNqbPU4evdRfrxNew907_EqjalscxBSz2gfxLg0_d3w8k_8f-JV/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+West+Rose+Window.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIhWMKkGgI8ue8V6EBgwesrERIkEAm-7Q-wWk_6tazLyLmklGjNuE_S_SnqpLUBZVU4mhGa9Ng9LbUp7Hyes7fAzE5TuNqbPU4evdRfrxNew907_EqjalscxBSz2gfxLg0_d3w8k_8f-JV/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+West+Rose+Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481987755852428402" border="0" /></a>The stained-glass windows are all modern, given the destruction wrought by German bombs in the war. Some of the windows have been rebuilt with traditional designs, such as for the great rose window of the facade. The restorers have done magnificent work here. The glass, in jewel tones, relates well to its Gothic stonework.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhufJevXMHwXTLXdIdU8mFZLUtmr5tY2KhBjB0A4dPwGuP3wxTSimKmNn7Ea88_Kjc8LtUPz60j6hSmTzRO2mNC6U7tbenknRTqIUmL9BCN-q5v2zfyhfGOBqoR7L0SpqUYTnVYP3_eVOHT/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+Chagall+Window.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 220px; height: 255px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhufJevXMHwXTLXdIdU8mFZLUtmr5tY2KhBjB0A4dPwGuP3wxTSimKmNn7Ea88_Kjc8LtUPz60j6hSmTzRO2mNC6U7tbenknRTqIUmL9BCN-q5v2zfyhfGOBqoR7L0SpqUYTnVYP3_eVOHT/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+Chagall+Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481987525093440466" border="0" /></a>Other windows in the cathedral are resolutely modern. Marc Chagall created a set of windows for the north side of the choir. These windows seem more serene--and perhaps more sedate--than those at Metz. The windows include elements from both the Old and New Testaments. Here's a part of the windows that show Old Testament scenes.<br /><br />Finally, other windows may be waiting for full-on restoration, but these windows have remarkably interesting stained-glass, in tones of white and gray. Here's a glimpse of one of these windows.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVv01CQmnI-QHXg8bCiTcBPBemLqzVTiHuL-13ltcxovbWWugYEC1ZeQEDhRHo9yg_gFwEQ7qitK6_lIin1NNcvkO1gqr5_vcC39stu_DbtQghB62uUXxsefwpgpNKkOMM7OZY3FXUL139/s1600/Rheims+Cathedral+Abstract+Window.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 350px; height: 226px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVv01CQmnI-QHXg8bCiTcBPBemLqzVTiHuL-13ltcxovbWWugYEC1ZeQEDhRHo9yg_gFwEQ7qitK6_lIin1NNcvkO1gqr5_vcC39stu_DbtQghB62uUXxsefwpgpNKkOMM7OZY3FXUL139/s400/Rheims+Cathedral+Abstract+Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481987170711356770" border="0" /></a>David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7682116775353721110.post-88019871173268393302010-06-12T12:37:00.001-07:002010-06-12T12:43:24.948-07:00Back in the USSusie and I are back in the US of A, in the Continental Airlines President's Club in Houston, actually. The eleven-hour flight was actually pleasant, and I was able to get some work done on the plane.<br /><br />I was expecting some degree of culture shock, but so far nothing to report. Maybe it's because, across the world, airports are such artificial environments that there's not much left to shock, culturally speaking.<br /><br />As I wrote the other day, I'll continue to blog about our travels until I'm caught up. This will probably take a couple of weeks.David Novickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06902617788684286775noreply@blogger.com0